Weekend Review: I went and saw a Bullfight

You totally wouldn't think of it on a day to day basis, but the Portuguese who once captured the Muscat and Al Batinah coastlines left their imprint on Omani culture indellibly. Some architecture, Portuguese rifles and canons, and antique 4 poster beds betray Oman's (partially anyways) period as a Colony (this didn't last, Alhamdulilah) of Portugual.

But, going with MOP for his morning run on Barka beach, OPNO having a picnic of fresh strawberry juice and a thyme [called Zatar in Arabic] and cheese pastry called fateerah [which everyone should try!] to snack on while she watched Omani riders excersing their horses on the beach, OPNO was reminded of Portugual. Two young Omani men were running a rather massive bull down the beach, taking it for a stroll almost as if it were a pet dog. It was certainly a thing to see.

They were, of course, warming it up for its fight in Barka that day [Friday] at 4 pm. A usual event most times in Barka.
This OPNO has lived in Oman a long time, and while I had heard of the Omani style of bullfighting: no betting, no matador, just headbutting angry bulls and live crowd to see which bull is strongest, I had never gone before.It wasn't my cup of tea but it was interesting. When OPNO P's friend Boxie comes to Oman in the summer we intend to make another day out of it, and pretend we're in Spain or something.

I also went to Naseem Gardens to spy which things to take the kids to. Lots of fun things there including these giant plastic balls you can go inside and walk/float around on a pool. That looked fun. Rides.

And of course shopping. Little sis, I am going to grab you a fake Chanel to go with your pseudo LV, and a classy jalabiyia.

I am going to grab myself a beige jalabiyia (Arabic style party dress) and a jersey sleeve abaya (going for 13 rials). Nothing unique there, but decent prices like at the Seeb exhibition center so...

Weekend Recap: Rustaq Road Trip

On the weekend 2 OPNOs drove to Rustaq (which one of them remembers as having been a part of Ad Dhakliyah historically), by way of Al Mussanah (after Seeb & Barka), which is why, she then supposed, it had become part of Al Batinah region. What a difference a road makes, right?

She remarked that it was waaaaaaaaay less longer than route to Rustaq from Nakhl. THIS OPNO, honestly wouldn't know.

Well, honestly (using that word twice) I fell asleep before we got there. But I was woken up at the Al Kafsah hot spring.

BTW, Isra, OPNO insists I add you got taken HERE---NOT to Nakhl.

Review: I don't like this stupid hot spring because if you are a Muslim it is sexist, and if you are an expat, it is highly inappropriate. What?! all readers must wonder. Well, I'll tell you. The hotspring is situated with the swimming/bathing area right under a Mosque, so it is not respectful for any non-muslim woman to be jumping in here in her bathing suit. Being, it is right next to a MOSQUE. This, really, is not the hotspring's fault, right? And I mean, there weren't really non-muslims living in the area so buidling a Mosque right there would not have been a problem for the respect and dignity of the Muslim community. But it IS sexist, as the Ministry of Tourism has oh so kindly built semi-private swimming areas for men, but there is no area for women. As I stated for the expats, this poses some trouble. Really, I could look at the spring, and it makes one whoel single photo, but it wasn't impressive. But I see why Omani men like it.

Onwards, we went to the fort. Which was closed for restoration. But never to fear, OPNO and MOP charmed their way in as per usual, and we had to pay nothing. But the fort IS closed, so unless you have the insane ability to walk through walls, climb castle parapets, or be skinny enough to slip through a chained closed door, well, Rustaq is on the OPNO MUST SEE WAITING LIST.

It is an AWESOME fort though, very important in Oman's history from the time period where they were battling the Portuguese, so I am told. It has the most impressive wall I have seen in Oman, and most resembles my idea of a castle. Jabrin is more polished, Nakhl more Omani in its veiw of surrounding date plantations, but Rustaq is massive, and charming. It is the largest fort I've been to, tough MOP drove us past Bahla and that fort (also closed for restoration) seemed pretty big too.

Highlight of this trip was that the locals in Rustaq let us take home some antqiue doors and window frames (which you will consequently be charged a fortune for in Mutrah Souq or in Al Qurum), and there was a goat that had gotten itself stuck in the local hypermarket. It was led in by an Omani man who thought it would be funny to take this very dignified looking lost goat inside the hypermarket and see what madness pursued.

Oman, Oman.

That hypermarket also had very cheap but yummy chocolates.

OPNO's Likes....: Souqs (top 5 picks)

In "OPNO likes" we are going to give you our top five picks with runner-ups for things we like to see or do (or eat) in Oman, inshaAllah.

TOP FIVE SOUQS in Oman

1.) Mutrah Souq, Muscat: as it contains spices, insence, perfumes, tourist souvenirs, cheap clothes and accessories persons--house&home--and more from India and China, a gold souq, a fish souq, fabric stores, tailoring bits&bobs plus tailoring services, Omani traditional things, furniture (not very much but...), and a lovely location along the Corniche. You feel like you are in Ali Baba's cave or in the Disney Aladdin movie at times.

The reason this souq is number one for Oman to me is a. it's location in Muscat and touristy traditional things, easily accessible by tourists but still frequented by real live Omanis going about their shopping, and near-ness to a lovely stroll down the corniche , or trips to Museums [Bait Al Baranda] and a decent cafe or 2. I also love the tailors since I am a fan of Omani traditional dresses.

Located in the Al Batinah region, just a short drive away from Muscat. Open Weekly from: 8-9 am, and 4-10:30 pm. Fridays: 4:00-11:00 pm is best.

2.) Sinaw Souq, As Sharqiyah: for it being the oldest preserved souq in Oman and for it being the best place to buy genuine antique beduoin jewelry and rifles, as well as camels.

I chose it because I love Beduoin life, and short of journeying into the wahiba or spending more time in the region, this is a place Beudoin families come for socialising. And anyone who knows me in IRL, knows I am a Beduoin if they ever was one.


Located in Al Sharqiyah Region, the quickest way to get here from Muscat is to drive up the Nizwa road, and turn towards Adam. From Adam it takes roughly 40 minutes.
Open from 7 a.m- 11:oo a.m. Best day is Thursday.


3.) Al Hafah Souq, Dhofar: Nestled in the coconut groves on Salalah's south side it is a cozy souq in the Al Hafah section of town. Here are textile shops, gold and silver souqs and probably best of all, perfumeries where you can find the best frankincense in Oman, and bukhoor that will send your olfactory senses sailing.

Additionally, there are several local cafe's serving up the best in local snacks and tidbits-mishkak, hummus, etc, and if you are a fan of khaleeji abayas, Salalah's tailors make the nicest at the lowest prices.

Located is Al Hafah, Salalah, open from, honestly, I don't know, please, a Dhofari reader let me know, but usually from 8 am-1 pm, and 4-10 pm I'm guessing.

4.) Nizwa Souq, Ad Dhakliyah: I kind of had to choose Nizwa souq even though I don't frequent it personally, very often, because a. it is only a 2 hour drive from Muscat, b. for Omanis it has the best traditional livestock souq [goats, cows, chickens] on friday mornings and the best silversmiths in the country [I always buy a new ring or bracelet when I come here, maybe a get some work done a khanjar for my son], b. it is located adjacent Nizwa fort, a popular tourist destination in itself, and finally, c. there's always the touristy stuff, and on any day of the week you can experience the usual hustle-bustle of the traditional markets selling fruits and vegetables, spices, meat and fish.

Open from 7:30 am-1:00 pm, and 4:00-9:30 pm. Best day, early friday morning.

5.) Ibra's Wednesday Women-Only Souq, As-Sharqiyah: Ladies, here is your chance to prove your shopping mettle at the Wednesday Souq in Ibra. Why? Because it's an all-women affair. No men allowed. So ditch your significant other and come to Ibra. Handicrafts, utensils and textiles are the main features here.

If you like traditional dress as much as OPNO does, this souq is for you. Wednesday morning 7:30-11:30 pm is the best time.

Weekend Recap: Wilayat Al Hamra, and Jibreen Castle

Time for another weekend recap for those of you wondering what to do what next weekend, take note of my rather awesome weekend:

First off, in the day was a rather scenic drive through Bahla. OPNO blogged about Bahla here: http://howtolivelikeanomaniprincess.blogspot.com/2010/12/bahla-ad-dakliyah-region.html.

Since I can't upload pics because of a software malfunction, see the link for relevent pics.

Well, we stopped at the Souq [by car, since MOP is admant OPNO must NOT walk around in this souq], then drove by the massive castle still under repairations. It WILL be something to see when it is finished. It is still impressive just to see driving by.

If you garden, by your Bahla pottery here for the best quality, and the best price. Nizwa souq WILL RIP YOU OFF.

Anyways, since we left from Muscat at 9-ish [we were a bit out of Muscat], we stopped to pray in the Bahla Mosque. Which, BTW, has an impressive women's section. Non-muslims, this totally won't impress you, since, well, they don't let you come inside. Sorry.

But for you Muslimah's:

While most Masjids have a seperate women's section, Bahla Mosque built the women's section on an above floor, so women can still see the Imam through the screened windows, but men can't see them. It is also very clean and peaceful, and also beautiful in design. And it has real toilets, not just the hole in the floor ones.

This is officially (at least, until I see more of Oman) my favourite Masjid in Oman for women.

From Bahla we drove to Misfah Al Abriyan, which OPNO posted pictures of here http://howtolivelikeanomaniprincess.blogspot.com/2010/10/not-so-abandoned-willayat-of-misfah-al.html.

In Misfah, we walked around, saw the village, dipped our feet in the falaj (to the horror of OPNO's husband MOP), and watched people practicing their shooting skills. While we longed to try our hands at it, we didn't have time.

If you come to Misfah, try to dress conservatively, and don't do anything they don't like in Islamic culture. It is a conservative society.

OPNO to MOP: "What would you do if I strapped on my rollarblades right now, and sailed down the hill from Misfah to Al Hamra?"

MOP: "I would never show my face in Misfah ever again."

Entrance to Misfah Al Abriyan (home to the tribe Al Abri) is free. Opening hours are daylight. There is no guard, no official notices or placards.When you arrive at this pedestrian-only town, park just on the outside and walk in. Follow the beaten path into the old corridors. Do not wonder into any homes unless you have permission even if they look abandoned. They are owned by families still, even if unoccupied. Do now walk in any of the terraced fields. Do not pick or eat any fruits that you see since this is the locals' homes and livelihood. It is considered stealing.

Despite all the rules, that are NOT written down, totally follow these and enjoy one of the most traditional places in Oman, and witness how Omanis really lived, and continue to do so.

There is a map upon entry of the town so you may get your orientation and plan your walk. While you are in the town, there are painted markers like a flag of yellow white and red to show your way. Follow them so you will stay on the 'official' path and not wander into private areas.

After that we went to Al Hamra to see the BEST museum of Omani daily life, in Oman. People, along with Nakhl fort, this is one of OPNO's picks for MUST SEES in Oman. The OPNO girls are unanimous on this.

Bait Safah/ Safa House in the wilayat/town of Al Hamra.

Bait (the means house in arabic) Safa is a traditional Omani house made of stone and mud from a historical family in Al Hamra, converted into a museum. But this is no boring old museum.

While there are plenty artifacts lying around, there are also Omani women and men acting out living in the house, from daily chorese such as baking bread, firing and crushing coffee beans (coffee and bread both being food things you'll get to sample as a guest at safa house), making blankets, and cosmetics. For the perfect photo op, they also keep Omani national dresses from all the different regions for men and women for you to try on and dress up in. I chose a black velvet Dhofari dress with crystal embellishments called "father of the tale", but we didn't dress OPNO up or MOP, because MOP was already wearing dishdasha and khanjar, and OPNO always wears traditional dress, either a Suri from Al Sharqiya, or an Omani thawb with beaded sirwaal. And besides that, she was veiled, so it really would have been a hassle for her. But GREAT for Westerners. I have to take my family here when they visit.

For only a rial and half to 2 rials (I am not sure if they charge non-Omanis more because MOP and OPNO told me not to speak since usually they manage to get discounts on museums and stuff if I don't use English) [we paid 1 rial and half], it is quite a tourist bargain. So NOT boring.

I don't know the hours, but we went on thursday, and it was open when we left, around 2 o clock pm. So most weekdays, this would be the same. Friday, try to ask someone who knows better than me. I'll try and ask MOP, he seems to be able to guess this kind of thing.

And if you can't find the way to Safa house on your own, offer to pay the little local boys of Al Hamra 200 baisa each to guide you to it. If you get lost, like I did, without MOP and OPNO.

After that we took lunch by way of coffee shop (rice and meat in Arabic style seems to be food poison-less for the most part so I went with it). After that, MOP INSISTED we drive through Bahla to nearby Jibreen Castle.

Omigosh, this place, Jibreen, is LOVELY. I mean, besides Nakhl fort, Jibreen wins my pic for best castle in Oman.

We spent alot of time just wandering around, enjoying the castle. A remarkable blend of defensive architecture and sophisticated artistry, the exquisite palace at Jabrin was constructed circa 1670 CE at the height of the Ya'aruba dynasty a period of place and prosperity. Says a tour guide website.

Jibreen Castle: It is open 9:00 am - 4:00 pm (Sa - Th）　& 8:00am - 11:00am (Fr).

While we got in for free, and we came after 4:00 pm, I believe the fee is one rial each person.

Sometimes, the Omani guard of forts gives you a better price (or free) if you are Omani or dressed like one and speak Arabic (or don't speak lol, like me). Why did they let us in after closing (this happens alot with MOP & OPNO it seems, when I've been with them) you might ask, when the door was closed on a British dude's face?

Seems Omanis in general aren't big "tourist in your home town" types, and in the words of the security guard, translated by OPNO "Westerners take a long time taking pictures of everything. Omanis let you go home on time."

LOL :XD

After that, we went back to OPNO's place and watched OPNO's "Kingdom of Heaven" DVD with the special feature historical guide pop-up thing on, so she and MOP could argue about what was true and what wasn't in the movie about the Second Crusade and the victory of Saladin in Jeruselum, way back when. Whatev, I like Ridley Scott cinematography, whether it is historically accurate or not.

MOP WAS surprised, however, that Muslims were not portrayed in that movie, as evil, lustful, exotic headchoppers.

How was your weekend, dear reader and/ or follower?

Did you do anything interesting in Oman?

Movie Review: The Tourist

I like Alfred Hitchcock movies in general, like "To Catch a Thief", "Gaslight", "Infamous", ect. Anything with Hitchcock and Grace Kelly, or Ingrid Bergman, pleeeeeeeeeeeeeease.

I only wish he'd done a film with Audrey Hepburn, but she said no, and as we know, Hitchcock only used blondes in his movies, and perhaps Hepburn refused the bleach?

We shall never know.

So I went to see the movie "The Tourist" at Al Bajha.

Well, director Florian Henckel von Donnersmarck's "The Tourist" was AIMED to be Hitchcock-esqe, with Angelina Jolie playing Elise Ward, an ice maiden/femme fetale whose ex-lover, the mysterious Alexander Pearce, is wanted for stealing billions from an English Gangster who surrounds himself with Russians.

Interpol is trailing Ward, a. because she is sexy, and b. because she is the only link to Pearce that they've got.

Stereotypically, the Hitchcock blonde/Henckel von Donnersmarck Jolie has the veneer of the icy seductress, who attempts to pull Interpol away from her lover Pearce, by seducing an unwitting tourist making his way to scenic Venice [Depp, who plays a math teacher from Wisconsin] to make the Interpol peeping toms think they've got their man Pearce.

And while we expect her to explode like an ice covered volcanoe at the end of the film, all the while being glamourous and ravishing through out, in Hitchock grande cinematic style...

[I love the standard of perfection in old cinema.

Which honestly, I like the idea of. They never do that in movies anymore, especially American movies. Thus I had hope from this European director]


...AT LEAST...

That is what we are waiting for, but it never happens.

We barely get a vapour, steam or fizzle.

This movie has got the clothes, and the hotel rooms, but none of the mystique or restrained elegance of the old Hitchcock era.

And the thing I hate most is, they could have TOTALLY done it with Depp and Jolie. it could have worked. The script, while albeit NOT the ending, had it in there, but somehow it was lost.

Ward screws it all in typical exploding volcanoe ice maiden style (we the audience are meant to believe) by falling in love with the boring math teacher from Wisconsin. Which is TOTALLY UNBELIEVABLE because there is no sexual tension whatsoever in the film [a must of the hey days of Hitchock's thrillers] but close ups of Ange's body, and weird fantasy scene for Johnny Depp's character that doesn't fit with the ending very well. Which is not typical of this genre of cinema.

Johnny Depp and Jolie, well looking quite stylish together through out the film, have no real chemistry.

The movie is totally about the clothes of Depp and Jolie, and touristy footage of Venice streamed in. [If you are a fashionista, it is TOTALLY worth seeing for the clothes alone and Jolie's hairstyles.].

So, our fallen in love pair, the glamourous femme fatale, and the pure hearted but simple minded math teacher, face a second rate gangster (who even I am not at all afraid of), and we wait to see if Alexander Pearce will step in to save his love, or will it be the math teacher from Wisoncsin?


Johnny Depp seems to be trying to channel Peter Sellers but nothing he says turns out to be very funny. The Omani audience laughed anyways, but, it wasn't that funny. Have you seen "The Party" or the original "Pink Panther"? THAT'S funny toned down acting. Depp utters about a dozen lines throughout the whole film. In fact, he’s so terse he hardly seems to be in the movie.


[I won't ruin the ending, but to be honest, I think it SUCKED majorly. NOT CREATIVE AT ALL]. I didn't feel suspense, I was just looking forward to see what Jolie and Depp would be wearing next.

The only funny lines in the movie came from an Interpol agent obsessed with catching Pearse, played, I believe, by Paul Bettany (the guy who played the albino demon monk from the Da Vinci code?).

Mr. Bettany, who are the ONLY thing, beyond Ms. Jolie's stylist, that kept me munching my popcorn, instead of heading to the mall shopping, to pick up the trends from Jolie's looks. Thank you, and I commend you. You were given a VERY unbelievable part, and yet you made me believe it. Kudos to you.

That folks, is acting.

Jolie is on auto pilot, and Depp is trying something that doesn't seem to be working for him, though if you hated 'Cap'n Jack Sparrow' you'll maybe prefer him this way. I don't know.

It wasn't a bad movie. I could watch it again, though on rental. Worth seeing in the theatre once. "Meet the Focker III" seemed the only alternative the night I went. I loved the clothes. Bettany was funny. But to steal lines from another review I googled that I didn't save the lin to "the film makes no mistake of it's identity as a “thriller.” You have several aspects found in Hitchcock thrillers here: mistaken identity, hidden pasts, the elusive femme fatale, an original score that just won't stop (seriously, not one second of silence) and the big reveal at the end meant to make the audience scratch their head in awe. If you're in awe, it'll likely be along the lines of saying out loud, “that's it?”

I did appreciate that they didn't try to replce Jolie with Megan Fox (deeeeeeeear God!) even though she's getting older and has some wrinkles on her face now. I like the cinema that used an older Ingrid Bergman, Audrey Hepburn, Elizabeth Taylor, ect in film. Very Catherine Deneuve. Women can age and still be very striking, and beyond the glamour of a pale imitation of such.

Anyways, I am bored of my review now.

To sum it all up without ruining the ending: A boat-chase scene is so slowly edited that it quickly becomes boring, and no one knows the code to crack open the safe, or do they? Finally, Jolie dresses up and takes a motor launch. So does Depp. They look spiffy. Venice looks beautiful. Jolie and Depp cruise around in a sleek motor launch.

And that's.... about it.

Plus some gloves. Jolie makes me crave to wear elbow length gloves for day. And I found my next hair style for the next wedding I am going to.

Until next time I have nothing to do and head out to the cinema...

-Love OPNO

For all you Fashionistas or brides... you missed it because I am a horrible blogger

BTW, I forgot to blog about it in the daily diary, but Oman's French Museum in Old Muscat just hosted a totally awesome collection of historical & haute couture bridal wear from France, and French Designers. http://main.omanobserver.om/node/29248 & http://gulfnews.com/mobile/life-style/beauty-fashion/trends-that-shaped-the-evolution-of-the-french-wedding-dress-1.726793

Thirty luxurious dresses from prestigious collections were exhibited to retrace the history of matrimonial fashion between 1810 and 2010, featuring the innovations of the most famous French designers including Jean-Paul Gaultier, Christian Lacroix, Guy Laroche, Yves Saint Laurent, Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, Chanel, John Galliano, Karl Lagerfelt, Paco Rabanne, Marcel Rochas, Jeanne Lanvin, Jacques Fath and Christian Dior.

It's not there anymore, but it was totally worth checking out. I loved loved loved the chanel one, and I remember finding the Victorian era dresses in Vintage shops in my city, as well as the vintage parasols and gloves.

Right now I working on sewing some traditional Omani wedding dresses, two of them, and eventually I will post pictures of different regional bridal dresses and customs. A virtual gallery of my own.

I totally understand WHY alot of Omani girls, especially my Muscati ones, forgo the traditional Omani dress in favour of the white wedding dress, as I wore one for my wedding here in oman, and it weighed a tonne. After a few hours in the warquiya (heavily bejewelled shawl) my headaches, and the embroidery and beading on the bodice was too much to move other than ceremoniously. And despite the dress being designer, designer as much as one can get in Oman, it had tacky sequins on it in places. I mean, the dress was nice, but not all that.

So decided to make my own. That LOOK as nice the Hindi tailored ones, but are COMFORTABLE AND BREATHABLE AS THE WHITE DRESS.

I was saying to my Omani friend S, "This dress, the embroidery and beading looks gorgeous, but in the end it's cheap hand work, and highly uncomfortable. If the same embroidery and beading was done on the dress by Lassage using French couture techniques, it would be comfortable."

Second quote of the night. "And sequins! No one but Chanel and Armani REALLY do sequins with class."

OPNO is a bit of a snob, she will be the first to admit, when it comes to clothes.

A review of the exhibit:

"...The genesis of the exhibition occurred with the French Embassy's desire to commemorate through the medium of fashion — one of France's greatest cultural exports — the 40th anniversary of Sultan Qaboos Bin Saeed's reign in Oman.

It was thus decided that the wedding dress would be the theme, for the very nature of weddings and wedding dresses conjures up an atmosphere of gaiety and celebration....

The ground floor is thus largely dedicated to dresses from the 19th to the early 20th century while the floor above contains haute couture wedding fashion 1970 onwards.

One of the most striking aspects of the exhibition is that the wedding dresses do not exist in isolation. While the dresses are narratives in themselves, as in the actual dresses and fashion that dictated their appearance, the team also incorporated them into being part of a greater social narrative occurring over time. The decision to do so was in keeping with the exhibition's vision of playing with the idea of time. The specifically named rooms, such as the Cinema Room, indicates the impact moving images had on the world, allowing a moment to be relived, rather than be frozen in time, through the inclusion of a Lumiere brothers film reel.

Another room is dedicated to documenting the pictoral representation of wedding dresses over the past two centuries, etchings graduating to print and 20th-century glossy magazines. One also gets a glimpse of a doll that was used as a marketing and advertorial tool, with designers dressing it up in their creations and sending it to potential customers. The room reveals the preoccupation with the wedding dress, predicated upon the assumption that it would be the most important dress a woman would wear in her life, given the sanctity of the wedding ritual and marriage and the attention dedicated to it, albeit in changing media avatars over time."


Anyways, if you've never seen the French Museum (exhibits in french, arabic, and english) it open from Saturday to Wednesday from 10 am to 1 pm and from 5 pm to 8 pm and Thursdays from 10 am to 1 pm.


-Love OPNO (who loves many things, like fine French food, and haute couture---not the stupid niqab ban.)

Weekend Recap: We're Going to Sinaw, We're going to Sinaw

On the weekend, OPNO and friends drove to Sinaw from the road in Bid Bid. And we only took one wrong turn, which was the fault of some old Omani dude in a petrol station we asked directions from. He said to turn at the next petrol station. He meaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaant, the next petrol station AFTER the next petrol station.

Thank you nice Sharqiyah family who drove as all the way to the real road!

All the way there, Princess and OPNO were chanting, "We're going to Sinaw, we're going to sinaw" and MOP was singing Dhofari traditional songs, about pearls, "Da da dana" or something, and not-so-traditional songs from Salalah, about a young Dhofari lad at the Univeristy begging the security guard to let him in to see a girl, because he was a changed man, although not related to the girl.

Radio does not work once you hit the mountains.

Well, it was a nice trip, lots of driving. We left late though, so really, it is better to leave at 6 or 7 am from Muscat on the Nizwa road to get to the traditional souq in Sinaw if you want to see it for what it is. 9 am until 11 am is the best time to see Souq Sinaw.

Thankfully, we still checked out the going price on camels for meat and for riding. (We are poor folks, and racing camels, we do not need).

Though MOP told us a funny story about "racing camels" from back in the days when he worked with the Beduoin.

We mainly went to check out the Beduoin culture, and to see some real knives and khanjars. We also checked the prices on some antique rifles, cuz MOP wants one. OPNO REEEEAAALLLY wanted to buy some Sharqiyah traditional dresses but we came to late for that.

We did buy a decent box of tomatoes though, for only 1 rial, lol, and checked out a Mandoos tv cabinet which was totally cool for one of the rooms in one the OPNO girl's places.

After the Souq sinaw closed, and the most sensitive OPNO had petted her fair share of camels and goats, getting excited everytime she saw a Toyato pick up with two camels haunched in the back yelling at them "Hi sweeties!!!!!!" to the chagrin of MOP, the group headed to Nizwa by way of Adam, haunted by sign advertised Adam's horse racetrack, where they explored the Niwa souq there and had lunch in a grand coffee shop. (The red one) acroos from the mountain that kind of looks like a dragon sleeping or a stegasaurus (sorry, my directions SUCK without pictures). Perfect meal, for only three rials et al. Yummy.

For all ya'll who have never seen the most famous fort (I don't know why, I don't love it all that much though it has some great cannons) (maybe cuz there are ALWAYS busloads of tourists here so shopping for a decent price is hard): Nizwa fort, open Saturday to Thursday, from 9 am until 4pm, and Fridays, 8:00 am until 11:00 am.

They also explored an Islamic book shop, looking for a book explaining Ibadhi fiqh, and bought some Salat lecture cassette tapes in the Ibadhi madhab. This is a religious thing. If you're not Islamically inclined, ignore.

After that, they THOUGHT of driving through Izki, but decided to save that for another day, and headed back to Muscat on the Nizwa road way.

OPNOs practiced their reading of Arabic under the tutelage of MOP who was aghast that the girls could not read "Fanja" since they knew all the letters, and at home they watched four movies, two of which were terrible, picked by MOP, and one that was okay, picked by Princess, and one that was excellent, of course, picked by OPNO. ;p take THAT MOP.

Weekend Recap

So, on the long weekend, I was invited to an Omani women's only party in Shatti [oh dear, I guess I will be giving away my identity now, but there's still 2 other OPNOs for ya'll to work on sooooo], and as per usual, me and a friend took a drive up to Nakhl. [I love Nakhl]. Actually, all OPNOs that remain in Oman love Nakhl.

Anyways, I am TOTALLY thinking about buying an old historical house on Nakhl and restoring it with the help of an Omani friend, so really, the trip was to see what was available, and how much it would cost as a reno project. You can buy the place for 5000 OMR, but I mean, if the walls are going to cave in on you, and you need to out in elecricity and bathrooms, it is gonna be a little more than that, like another 10 000 OMR at least, and if the walls are gonna cave, you need that 10, 000 to start.

So, we bought mishkeek (grilled lamb on a skewer) by the fort like we always do at magraib time if we are there, parked at the hot springs, and wandered up the river (found a donkey and some Omani men praying magraib), and then turned back to the food shops. Behind them is a road to the village, and walking through here really isn't a touristy thing to do. They don't take buses of tourists through the old part of the village, but me and my friend were on the hunt for old houses. So we found some, which were really nice and in good shape, but we also got lost, and two Omani boys had to drag up back to the car park. Because we are sooooo awesome, and well, my friend has the worst memory in the world, and a bad habit that often results in getting lost of wanting to find "a different way" back. Most villages in Oman have just one road through them so the different way back? Doesn't exist!!!!!!

At least we saw alot of frogs, and my abaya got all muddy, and we nearly fell into the river:D

To get to Nakhl, my friend and I noted, there is no sign for the turn off on the road there, but there is a thing that looks like a little buse shelter, and a government building with a solely in Arabic sign, before one other turn off. I will take a picture for you all next time I go. This is where you turn to get to Nakhl. And you keep on driving straight, straight, straight through the town past the fort and shops, and through a winding stone fenced road of farms to the hot springs. At which point, there will actually BE a sign. Saying, well, you made it. This is it.

Well, this also happened to be the night of the party in Shatti. I was told the same day that it was a barbecue, and women only, so, you know, I dressed for a barbecue, the way I would back in the West. I wore a cute denim skirt, and a red blouse top, and cute sandals, nothing fancy, since, well, we'd be barbecuing right? My abaya was the same one I wore to Nakhl, and it is an abaya that cost only 7 rials, plain black, three snap Islamiyia style.

For all those curious about Omani women's parties.

WRONG.

At Omani women's barbecue parties, the Omani women sit in lovely designer casual wear on bright cushions or plastic blow up chairs on carpets spread out on the lawn, with their hair all perfect under christmas lights strewn across the villa's walls so no one can see under, and a very strange English hip-hop meets Hilary Duff with Arabic music thrown in CD plays, and the maids all barbecue. This is a wear your most stylish abaya barbecue.

As I come in I hide my purse, because it is not Chanel, Gucci, or Louis Vuitton, and it is kind of dusty and scratched from my adventure in Nakhl. Girl's arrive in blinged out designer abayas, and to be honest, mine is the plainest one there. I have my fair share of glam abayas, but where I have moved, out of Muscat, nobody wears abayas like these friends of mine, and I'd be the odd one out if I dressed like I like to (like these girls and women). But with abaya off, and wearing clothes from a Western store unavailable in the GCC, no one knows that my sandals are not haute couture, or that my blouse isn't. My skirt could be Zara. And honestly, while these girls have money, they aren't snobs. They don't care.

Women go to certain carpets, based on what set they are in. There are the preteen girls in a gaggle together, the stylish young mothers with their babies all cooing together, a very glam Arabic speaking set that say hi to me in Arabic, and i sit with the multi-lingual set, where French, Arabic, and English are spoken, and people talk about Univeristy or travel, or my story of how I am in Oman. My friend R arrives and she alone laughs at my dress and abaya, and from her, it's okay, because she always teases me. "You're spending too much time in the village" she purred. I probably was. I was getting quieter, and listening more.

We drank Sun Top and Pepsi, and ate h'ordoerves, and then I wanted to take off my tights because it was too warm for tights, and all the bathrooms were full, so I was shown to another bathroom beyond the women-only section of the house, where I could change. I was left there, and I didn't take my purse (it being hidden and all due to it's lack of a good name or a material of quality).

Well, I guess a maid from the men's side of the house wanted to make sure no one used this part of the house in mistake so she locked the door to the rooms I was in from the outside.

So when I went to get out I was trapped. I banged on the door till my fists were red, and I screamed for help, and the houses in Shatti are serriously so big that no one could hear me. So I climbed the pipe in the bathroom to a window above that opened to the party outside and yelled help out there.

Thankfully, a maid heard me and came and got me. I spent one hour in the makeup and no one thought to look for me, because some women paint themselves white with makeup and it takes about an hour to put that stuff on anyways.

When I went to find the maid from the host to thank her, after we had the barbecue and awesome desert (real strawberry shortcake), the host didn't know the maid.

Apparently, if you are going to an Omani woman's barbecue in Shatti, you bring your maid. Go figure.

So leaving the party, my driver was too embarrassed by his car to park close to the house near everyone's Porsches. So I walked down the road, and asked him why, and he said, "The neighbors were looking at me funny, like why is this car in their neighborhood." I laughed, and went home. Even Shatti is an adventure for me, R would tell you.

On another day I went to Bait Naman in Barka, cuz I'd never been there, at the recomendation of an Omani family who owns the helwa (Omani sweet) factory there, and a few other places. They fed me 5 kinds of helwa before that (the only one I find tolerable is the abyad one with no milk), sprayed me with 5 kinds of perfume and two kinds of oud, and stuck bukhour up my dress, and then I headed out to Bait Naman, a 400 year old fortified house in Oman used for political meetings and such. It had some antiques inside, and alot of pigeons on the roof. Some of the antiue khanjars were nice. I didn't spend alot of time there, but there was an Omani family being given a personal tour of the house in Arabic by the caregiver.

After that, I think I slept. So, those are the highlights of this OPNO's long weekend.

Daily Diary: Sumail Stretch, doing the touristy thing

So my weekend, before the food poisoning incident, was actually a wonderful one, besides the fact that yet again my visit to my husband's village was delayed.

Arab families have way too many politics.

But we stopped by friends' in Nizwa, and had qhahwa and dates (yummy with tahini dip and sesame seeds), and then, well, MOP had promised to take the girls of OPNO to Izki, since it is one of the oldest places of Islam in Oman, but MOP missed the half a dozen turn offs to Izki (not a fan of the place apparently) so the girls went and saw a small village in Sumail where a little local Omani girl in village dress played peekaboo with one OPNO and other climbed up a hill to see a fort that was NOT THE fort, but turned out to be BETTER than the fort in Sumail.

Sumail seems an awesome place to see crumbling village houses, and a genuine felaj system that was solely used up until the last ten years [recounts MOP, our not-overtly-interested-in- anything-crumbling guide].

Also there was this famous Omani house in Sumail whose name escpaes me, restored for tourists, but it was closed. Only open in the morning. So the OPNO girls saw that from the outside, and one of them pried the door open half way enough that she could fit in the through the crack, but the others were far too fat (HEALTHY!) to make it.

So the group ended up praying Al Asr prayer in a ruined Masjid adjacent to the house (which was slipping off the hillside) to the amusement of one local family who came over to say salaam and informed the group they may have been the first persons to have prayed in that Mosque/Masjid in the last 150-300 years. Kind of cool.

In the evening they saw the Barka souq (traditional vegetables and fish, better in the morning), and headed off into Muscat for a firework show. They ate cotton candy, and popcorn, from a very happy coffee chop with more customers then it could handle, and on the drive back stopped at the camel breeding center to ask about the price for an Omani camel.

OPNO petted some camels and fed them palm leaves, and were told the camels were not for sale, so I guess that leaves another road trip to Sinaw in the near future.

Watching Movies in Oman

Going to the cinema in Oman can be an interesting experience. As a single Muslim gal, I never went by myself without one of my shebab (the guys) for keeping things kosher, or a rather large-ish group of banaat (girls). Because, well, go by yourself and you get one thinks-he's-sauve-and-brave Omani fella trying to chat you up or buy you popcorn ect, and it ruins the experience. As a non-muslim expat, I admit I never had this experience, but seems if you wear an abaya and a headscarf you instantly turn into dating material, go figure.

So, then my other option was renting movies.

I would have rented more but most places demand that you buy a membership. Which I did once, but since I always forget to carry my member card, and change my GSM # too often to remember it, I get stuck with puting 20-10 rials deposit down for a single rental. Which, I don't always have the fuloos (money) to do.

Watching movies off the net.

Anyone whose been in Oman for a week knows that the average internet connection suckssssssss, and is painstakingly slow. So downloading movies takes time, and for me, honestly, as a Muslim, I can't do it, cuz in most cases (not all) it is stealing.

And I love the part where I can't hear the film because te bad pirated copy has people in the theatre laughing and I see some asian guy get up and walk across the screen to get more popcorn. Awesome!

So then. I turn to buying movies when I have the cash. I spend a little extra at a store for what I am guaranteed is NOT a pirated copy.

I get home and find that the not-a-fake is a fake and feel kinda bad. And wish a little I HAD bought the cheaper OBVIOUSLY fake one.

But, you know what, there is always one part of watching a pirated film that makes me so giddily happy.

There is that add at the beginning that thanks you for buying the original and not a pirated copy. It says, thank you for not stealing. THAT PART, dear readers, I find absolutely hilarious and timelessly funny to see, on any DVD. That they pirated the "thank you for not pirating" part.

BEST part of the movie!

Gardening in Oman

Gardening in Oman is actually not all that difficult, but if you are from a European climate like OPNO formally was, you might not know what plants grow in Oman best, and what type of soils to use for what. If you are absolutely clueless, as OPNO was before she married MOP [whose family are big on growing date palms and Omani lemons], then this book might be for you.

[I will upload a pic of the book when I get a chance but right now some of my new software is blocking all file uploads]

‘Gardening in Oman and the UAE’ in by Anne Love.

Available from; The Family Bookshop, Qurum and MSQ Smiths Shatti Al Fair branches, MSQ and Markaz Al Bahja PDO Green wing room 298 Charlie Love PDO camp Feather 96470806


Most people in Oman regard gardening as a difficult activity to pursue. Partly because of the lack of open spaces outside their homes, and partly because of the perception that not too many plants and flowers can bloom in the heat of the desert. Anne Love is an exception. With a degree in Biogeography and a second degree in Agriculture, her book Gardening in Oman and the UAE describes the hundreds of varieties of plants, flowers and trees that bloom in Oman. It also speaks of how easy and satisfying it is, to cultivate gardening as a hobby. This is her second book on the subject; the first one was published in 1995.

Anne Love: “The thing about gardening is that it is very easy to do. You only need a bit of space and the rewards are quick. Till date, no one has experimented much with gardening here in Oman.” [says this passionate gardener, who has been growing several different kinds of plants for over 40 years now.] “You would be surprised at the varieties of flowers that grow in Oman, even in the heat. In fact, there are hundreds of them.”

According to her, Oman’s vegetation includes Winter Annuals (like Petunias, Marigolds, Sunflowers and Geraniums, among several others), Herbs, that grow well in pots or window boxes (like mint, coriander, sage, parsley and basil), Permanent plants that grow all the year round, Ground Cover (like shrubs and bushes that grow flat and low), Trees and Climbers.

Anne Love: “There are even plants that bloom to their maximum in the summer heat, like the Rangoon Creeper that thrives in the full sun and the Urechites Lutea or the Yellow Mandevilla, tolerant of a wide range of soils including the alkaline kind found in the Sultanate.”“There are such lovely parks here that have beautiful gardens-the Qurum Park, the gardens of the Grand Mosque and the garden in front of His Majesty’s palace. They are all well maintained and a sight to behold. In fact, at this time of the year, one even gets to see flowers blooming on the roadside. Still people fail to notice this and take the plant life here for granted.”
According to Anne: “The best way to choose a plant is to go to a local park, see what’s growing there, then go to a nursery and buy the plant. The only thing is that for plants to stay green throughout the year, one needs to water them regularly. It costs nothing to buy a few seeds and plant them.”Anne is now planning a third book on Container Gardening, or gardening within a small area, “since space is at a premium these days.”

Anne Love can be reached on arabiangardening@gmail.com.

Bahla- Ad Dakliyah Region

My husband's tribe used to war alot with the folks at Bahla. Why? I don't know really, nor does he, but I am sure it had to do with water or good farms or something. Either way, my husband's tribe is rather superstitious about the people of Bahla, mumbling alot of stories about witches and Jinn [which I love to hear because some of them are SOOOOOOOOo funny, and others give you chills] and attributing them to the ill will of those from Bahla towards those from [____]. Yet, being that the family farm sold dates in Bahla souq, it remains one of his favourite souqs. Yet I am not allowed to go, because apparently it is not a souq Omani women frequent. Which just means I will go without him with my Western friends;). Best of both worlds, I tell you. MOP will ask us "What are you OPNO girls doing this weekend?" "Going to the tailor in such-and-such place near Bahla" we will recite innocently, then head down to the souq, where he will never hear tell of it, because those folks at Bahla don't care much for him anyways:). Actually, I think that whole tribal blood feud thing died out with MOP's father, but I'll ask the folks of Bahla how it all started. MOP's stories of Jinn and witches, while colourful, are probably not the most historically accurate rendition of Bahla's tribal past. ***benefit of not going with MOP: we will be allowed to eat & drink things/foods cooked by the people of Bahla without fearing poison or spell craft*** Old Bahla really fascinates me. It was quite important to Oman historically.The ruins of the immense fort for which Bahla is famous, with its walls and towers of unbaked brick and its stone foundations, is a remarkable example of this type of fortification and attests to the power of the Banu Nebhan. At the foot of the Djebel Akhdar (Green Mountain) lie the fortresses of Rustaq to the north, and Izki, Nizwa and Bahla to the south. These have all been capitals at some time in their history, and as a consequence have played an important role in the history of Oman. It was here that the Kharijite communities resisted all attempts at 'normalization' by Caliph Harun Al-Rashid, and put into practice their religious concepts, which were at once radically puritanical and democratic. [Alot of that copied directly from Wikipedia :D] . OPNO wouldn't write "puritan". I tend to like Puritans so long as they are hypocritical persecuting 'Scarlet Letter" kinds :)

Not far from the capital of Oman, the oasis of Bahla owed its prosperity to the Banu Nabhan who, from the mid-12th to the end of the 15th centuries, imposed their rule on the other tribes. Only the ruins of what was a glorious past now remain in this magnificent mountain site.

Yet the town and village is very much alive, as the souq being MOP's favourite attests to, and Bahla pottery being some of the most prized in Oman... Turn left – just opposite the Fort and visit the old Souq and Market place – many Omanis believe (including MOP & KH), that the huge Sycomore Tree in the centre of the Market place is bewitched and spreads its power over the village. However, should you dare to enter the village, and explore the narrow old lanes, they will lead you to the famous pottery. Many families still make their living out of designing and burning clay for Water buckets (to be seen all over the country), Flowerpots etc… Bahla Fort is an outstanding example of the characteristic military architecture of the Sultanate of Oman.
Built on a stone base, the adobe walls and towers of the immense fort probably include some structural elements of the pre-Islamic period, but the major part of the constructions dates from the prosperous time of the Banu Nabhan, with the latest reconstruction dating from the beginning of the 16th century. At the foot of the fort, to the south-west, lies the Friday Mosque with its beautiful sculpted mihrab (prayer niche) probably dating back to the 14th century.
These monuments are inseparable from the small town of Bahla and its souk, palm grove and adobe ramparts surrounding the oasis, a remarkable work with towers, doors and underground irrigation channels. The monuments of Bahla were in a critical state when it was inscribed on the World Heritage List. It had never been restored (thereby conserving a high degree of authenticity), and was not protected by any conservation measures. The terrace of the Friday Mosque had not undergone maintenance work, and it collapsed between 1981 and 1983, causing the arches to cave in and the wall plastering to be torn away, thus endangering the mihrab (prayer niche) in the building, which the Ibadite community had abandoned in favour of the new mosque. A detailed survey was made in 1977 by the Omani Archaeology Department, but restoration work did not make any headway until 1988. This was entirely financed by the Omani Government, with photogrammetric recording by the Mining Museum in Bochum (Germany). By 2005 it was virtually complete. I am also a fan of Bahla's giant new-ish Mosque/Masjid.

The Horses of Oman

If you have NEVER seen an equestrian event in Oman, it is TOTALLY something I recommend you see. On Al Athaiba, on 18th November street, on the side of the road opposite the Chedi (a bit farther down) driving towards Sultan center is the Camel Racing Federation and Equestrian Club building, which keeps an accurate schedule of events.

Definately worth seeing. Once upon a time Oman was one of the most famous places in the world for breeding the best horses, like in Sharqiyah. Such beautiful horses, mashaAllah.